Wednesday, July 17, 2024

I was raised on the Milk of the Burro

    I finally came to the end of the Baja Pennisula. Such a long hot drive if there ever was. I stayed in some forgotten hostel recovering from sunburn and dehydration. I was soon on my way to the ferry landing for the overnight trip to Matzatlan. This is a car ferry that looks like a freighter. It packs mostly trucks into its hull. These big rigs can be dangerous.
    I bought my ticket for $200 so I was committed to the trip. I was early like always and had to wait most of the day. I decided to have one of those typical Mexican meals and a beer at the only restaurant, bar, nightclub, toilet in the area. I hiked up to the location in Palenque.
    I was invited to sit with some of the travelers who were also attending to various needs of the day like calling their families to say one last goodbye,  The kids love to follow their Dad's trips . It was kinda festive since everyone was laughing and having a good time. It was time to down a few since I would not be driving for a while. 
      One of the guys I sat with was from San Salvador. Sort of a sad fella so I asked him to tell his story. We were all just wasting the afternoon until the ship was finally ready. He began his story with this phrase. 'I was raised on the mMilk of the Burro.' Everyone broke up laughing . What this means is his family was so poor all they had was this scrawny burro who got pregnant.  This story led into how poor they were without shoes and clothes and how they had to be creative as they grew up.  He not only kept us laughing but illustrated the plight of the peasant vividly. I will always remember the cartoon of the skinny burro being milked for the kids to have a drink.  Soon the long whistle blew. We gathered up our tortillas and gave one last look back from where we just had come. The ship was ready for departure.
    At first you are thinking 'at sea at last' until the first upset stomach barfs all over the lounge. The stench builds as the day wears on. If you didn't buy a berth you were resigned to the day room with the TV blaring all night. I tried to sleep in the car but it was against the rules. So an all nighter with cat naps was what I was facing. Dawn broke to the scene of the ship approaching Mazatlan. I had finally found a spot to sleep on deck in the cool of the morning. I awoke rested and glad to leave the ferry for the drive down the coast.  First to get on the ferry and the last to get off. This was because I was the only private car going south at that time of the year.
   You hear all kinds of stories from the truckers who want to practice their English. One guy had many skin grafts all over his body. He told me what happened to him.  He was instructing a new driver on how to handle the truck in a controlled turn.  The kid though, was uncontrollable. Driving like its a sports car does not work with a big rig. He rolled the truck and the fuel spilled out and caught fire.  He was lucky. His burns covered 60 percent of his lower body. His face and hands were OK but the rest of him took years to heal.   He actually was at the same hospital where I worked at in SLC.  Now he drives the coastal route which is somewhat safer. The long night was over with a nice Mexican breakfast.
   You must be vigilant. One slip and the word dinero will be soon used;  lots of dinero, lots and lots of dinero. It is also called mordida which means payoff. Carry plenty of pesos. You just never know.
       I rolled  into Agua Prieta  going highway speed, when out of the twilight up jumped a topa or sleeping policeman. I hit the thing so hard everything was bouncing around.  A cop pulled up behind me and lit me up. I pulled over immediately. He said I must pay him 750 pesos or roughly 65 USD.  He started get agitated and using the word ahorita which means immediately if not sooner. I tried to fake a phone call just to get him to back off a little and calm him down.  Luckily I had a lot of cash in my locked glove box.  I asked for a receipt or a copy of the ticket but he said there is none and proceeded to drive off.  I was robbed by that officer.
       I was stopped at the Aduana going into Panama.  The only way to prevent a total car search is to leave a twenty on the floor on the passenger side. Everybody does it. This helps the guard feed his family and shortens your torture in 130 degree heat. Once the contents are spread all over and you pass inspection you are expected to put everything in order muy rapido and get the hell out of the way. Next? Mordida is made not earned.

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